Glurh, Ka-Tiem, Prikk Thai, Rugg Pakk Chee (The Big Four Paste)

The Big Four Paste, which can be made ahead and refrigerated for a month, is extremely versatile. For pungency, this ancient recipe relies on white peppercorns, which are gentler and more subtle than chiles. First you smell the wonderful aroma from the roasted peppercorns, then, as you eat, you experience a gentle rush of warmth that lingers. For a less pungent paste, decrease the peppercorns to 2 teaspoons and the coriander seeds to 1 teaspoon. If you are concerned about salt, you can leave it out, though I wouldn't advise it. Here, salt helps preserve the paste as well as brings out its flavor.

Ingredients

1. 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
2. 2 tablespoons Thai white peppercorns
3. 1 teaspoon sea salt
4. 12 to 15 cloves garlic, minced (1/2 cup)
5. 1 cup minced cilantro stems and roots

Directions

1. To Prepare with a Mortar and Pestle
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3. Heat a 7-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the coriander seeds and dry-roast sliding the skillet back and forth over the burner, until the seeds are fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a small bowl to cool and repeat with the peppercorns.
4. When cool, grind the coriander seeds and peppercorns separately in an electric spice or coffee grinder and transfer to separate bowls.
5. Place a mortar on top of a damp towel on the kitchen counter, preferably waist-high.
6. Add the sea salt and garlic to the mortar and pound them together by holding the pestle securely in the center of your palm and pounding straight up and down into the center of the mortar. Use a spoon or spatula to scrape the ingredients from the sides into the center of the mortar as needed, and pound until a paste forms. Add the cilantro roots and stems and pound to a smooth paste.
7. Add the ground coriander and peppercorn powders and pound and blend until the paste is smooth. Transfer the paste to a jar, seal, and refrigerate.
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9. To Prepare with a Food Processor
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11. Roast and grind the coriander seeds and peppercorns as above. Fit the food processor with the steel blade. Add the sea salt, garlic, and cilantro roots and stems and pulse until finely minced, scraping down the side of the bowl frequently. Add the ground spices and process a paste. Transfer to a jar, seal, and refrigerate.