Chestnut Ravioli With Sage Browned Butter

No turkey: These chestnut ravioli are sprinkled with apple and drizzled with browned butter.

Yield:

Serves 8 (First Course)

Ingredients

1. 1 cup roasted, shelled, and skinned chestnuts (1/2 lb in shell or 7 oz bottled whole)
2. 2 oz sliced pancetta or bacon, finely chopped
3. 7 tablespoons unsalted butter
4. 1/4 cup finely chopped onion
5. 1 large garlic clove, smashed
6. 1/4 cup water
7. 1 Granny Smith apple
8. 2 tablespoons finely grated parmesan
9. 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
10. 48 won ton wrappers (12-oz package)
11. 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
12. 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage

Directions

1. Coarsely chop chestnuts.
2. Cook pancetta in 3 tablespoons butter in a large heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring, until crisp on edges, about 5 minutes. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until onion is softened. Add chestnuts and water and simmer, stirring, until liquid is reduced by half. Discard garlic.
3. Transfer mixture to a bowl and mash to a coarse paste with a fork. Peel half of apple and cut enough of peeled half into 1/4-inch dice to measure 3 tablespoons. Reserve remaining (unpeeled) apple. Stir diced peeled apple into chestnut mixture with parmesan, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
4. Put 1 won ton wrapper on a work surface, keeping remaining wrappers in plastic wrap, and mound 1 scant tablespoon of filling in center. Lightly brush edges of wrapper with water and top with a second wrapper, pressing down around filling to force out air. Trim excess dough with cutter and seal edges well, pressing them together with your fingertips. Transfer ravioli to a dry kitchen towel, then make more in same manner.
5. Cut enough of unpeeled apple into 1/4-inch dice to measure 3 tablespoons and toss with lemon juice.
6. Heat remaining 4 tablespoons butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides and butter begins to turn brown. Stir in sage and cook, stirring, until sage is crisp and butter is golden brown. Season with salt and pepper.
7. Add ravioli to a 6-quart pot of salted boiling water, then cook at a slow boil, stirring gently occasionally, until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Carefully transfer ravioli with a slotted spoon to a colander to drain. Slide ravioli into sage butter and cook over moderate heat, stirring gently, 1 minute.
8. Sprinkle ravioli with unpeeled apple and season with pepper.

Notes

Mushroom Lasagne

If you’re looking for a lasagne that can play the lead as a vegetarian main dish or a supporting role to a meaty roast, this is it. Plain white mushrooms get a little oomph from a few dried porcini, but it’s the magic of a dash of soy sauce and a generous glug of Sherry that brings out their true depth of character. Add a cheesy sauce and some noodles and you’ve got a star right there on the dinner table.

Yield:

Serves 8 (Main Dish) Or 12 (Side Dish)

Ingredients

1. 1/2 oz dried porcini (about 1/2 cup)
2. 1 1/4 cups boiling-hot water
3. 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4. 3 tablespoons olive oil
5. 1 medium onion, finely chopped
6. 1 lb white mushrooms, sliced 1/4 inch thick
7. 1 tablespoon soy sauce
8. 6 tablespoons medium-dry Sherry, divided
9. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
10. 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
11. 2 1/2 cups milk
12. 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
13. 1/4 lb grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1 cup), divided
14. 1/2 cup chilled heavy cream
15. 12 Barilla no-boil lasagne noodles (from 1 box)

Directions

1. Soak porcini in hot water 15 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve (lined with a paper towel if liquid appears gritty) into a small bowl, pressing on porcini. Reserve liquid and rinse porcini to remove any grit, then chop.
2. Preheat oven to 425°F with rack in upper third.
3. Cook garlic in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat, stirring, until pale golden, about 1 minute. Stir in onion and 1/4 tsp salt and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes.
4. Remove lid and increase heat to medium-high. Add sliced mushrooms and 1/4 tsp salt and sauté until softened and juicy, about 5 minutes. Add porcini, soy sauce, and 1/4 cup Sherry and cook, stirring, until liquid has evaporated and mushrooms begin to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat.
5. Melt butter in a heavy medium saucepan over low heat. Add flour and cook roux, whisking, 3 minutes. Add reserved porcini liquid and milk, whisking. Bring to a boil, whisking, then simmer, whisking frequently, 3 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in remaining 2 Tbsp Sherry, nutmeg, 3/4 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp pepper, 1/2 cup cheese, and mushroom mixture.
6. Spread about 1 1/3 cups sauce over bottom of a 13- by 9-inch baking dish. Cover with a layer of 3 lasagne noodles. Repeat layering sauce and noodles 3 more times, using up sauce and ending with noodles.
7. Beat cream in a bowl until it holds soft peaks, then spread over noodles. Sprinkle evenly with remaining 1/2 cup cheese.
8. Cover pan tightly with foil and bake 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake, uncovered, until golden brown, about 20 minutes more. Let stand at least 10 minutes before serving.

Notes

Mushroom cream sauce can be made 1 day ahead and chilled (covered once cool). Reheat before using, thinning with a little water.Lasagne, without whipped cream, can be assembled 4 hours ahead and chilled, covered with foil. Top with whipped cream, then bake, covered, until beginning to bubble before removing foil.

Wild Mushroom Lasagne

Earthy porcinis with tart tomatoes in a creamy sauce make for a vegetarian appetizer or main course that even meat-eaters might love.

Yield:

Serves 12 (First Course) Or 8 (Main Course)

Ingredients

1. FOR BÉCHAMEL SAUCE
2. =======================
3. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4. 2 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
5. 3 cups whole milk, heated
6. 1 garlic clove, smashed
7. 3/4 teaspoon salt
8. 1/8 teaspoon black pepper
9. .
10. FOR MUSHROOM TOMATO SAUCE
11. =======================
12. 2 cups boiling-hot water
13. 1 oz dried porcini mushrooms (1 cup)
14. 1 cup chopped onion (1 medium)
15. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
16. 2 (14- to 15-oz) cans diced tomatoes in juice
17. Pinch of sugar
18. 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
19. 1/2 teaspoon salt
20. .
21. FOR ASSEMBLING LASAGNE
22. =======================
23. 12 long ruffle-edged dried lasagne noodles (not no-boil)
24. 5 oz finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 3/4 cups; see cooks' notes, below)

Directions

1. MAKE BÉCHAMEL:
2. Heat butter in a 2-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat until melted, then add flour and cook roux over low heat, whisking, 3 minutes. Add hot milk in a fast stream, whisking vigorously, and whisk in garlic and salt. Bring to a boil, whisking. Reduce heat and simmer, whisking occasionally, 10 minutes, then remove garlic and add pepper.
3. MAKE MUSHROOM TOMATO SAUCE:
4. Pour boiling-hot water over porcini in a bowl and let stand until softened, about 20 minutes. Lift out porcini, squeezing excess liquid back into bowl, then rinse to remove any grit. Pour soaking liquid through a sieve lined with a dampened paper towel into another bowl. Chop porcini and add to soaking liquid.
5. Cook onion in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4 to 5 minutes, then stir in tomatoes with juice, sugar, porcini with soaking liquid, and 1 tablespoon basil. Simmer, stirring frequently, until tomatoes have broken down into a chunky sauce, about 25 minutes. Stir in salt and remaining tablespoon basil.
6. ASSEMBLE AND BAKE LASAGNE:
7. Cook lasagne noodles in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water 8 minutes (noodles will not be cooked through), then drain and transfer to a bowl of cold water.
8. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 425°F.
9. Spread 1 cup béchamel on bottom of a buttered 13- by 9-inch baking dish, reserving remainder for last layer. Drain 3 lasagne noodles in 1 layer on a kitchen towel and arrange over béchamel in baking dish. Spread pasta in dish evenly with one third of mushroom tomato sauce and sprinkle with 1/3 cup cheese. Repeat layering of pasta, mushroom tomato sauce, and cheese twice, then cover with last 3 lasagne noodles. Spread remaining béchamel on top and sprinkle with remaining 3/4 cup cheese.
10. Bake, uncovered, until lasagne is bubbling and top is browned, 30 to 35 minutes. Let stand at room temperature at least 15 minutes before cutting.

Notes

To finely grate Parmigiano-Reggiano and similar cheeses, use the small (1/8-inch) teardrop-shaped holes (not the ragged-edged holes) of a box or similar handheld grater. Other shaped holes, a Microplane rasp, and pregrated cheese yield different volumes.Béchamel and mushroom tomato sauces can be made 2 days ahead and cooled, uncovered, then chilled separately, covered. Bring sauces to room temperature before using.You can assemble lasagne 1 day ahead and chill, covered. Bring to room temperature before baking.

Lasagne Bolognese With Spinach

In the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, lasagne bolognese is usually made with a besciamella sauce. Italian-American cooks often replace that time-consuming step with ricotta. In this wickedly good interpretation, food editor Melissa Roberts combines the two traditions by whisking milk into some of the ricotta, creating a billowy pseudo-besciamella (the remaining ricotta mixture is stirred together with spinach). We rarely call for specific brands, but we did find that widely available Barilla no-boil dried noodles produced an exemplary lasagne. An egg pasta, this one comes very close to the flavor and delicacy of homemade.

Yield:

Serves 8

Ingredients

1. FOR BOLOGNESE SAUCE
2. =======================
3. 1/4 cup olive oil
4. 3 oz sliced pancetta, finely chopped
5. 1 medium onion, finely chopped
6. 1 large carrot, finely chopped
7. 1 celery rib, finely chopped
8. 2 garlic cloves, chopped
9. 2 lb ground beef chuck (not lean)
10. 1 1/2 cups dry white wine
11. 1 1/2 cups whole milk
12. 1/4 cup tomato paste
13. 1 1/2 teaspoons thyme leaves
14. .
15. FOR RICOTTA FILLING
16. =======================
17. 2 (10-oz) packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed
18. 2 (15-oz) containers whole-milk ricotta
19. 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
20. 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
21. 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
22. 3/4 cup whole milk, divided
23. .
24. FOR ASSEMBLING LASAGNE
25. =======================
26. 12 Barilla no-boil dried lasagne noodles (from 1 box)
27. 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Directions

1. MAKE SAUCE:
2. Heat oil in a 12- to 14-inch heavy skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Cook pancetta, onion, carrot, celery, and garlic, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are golden and softened, 12 to 15 minutes. Add beef and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up any lumps, until meat is no longer pink, 6 to 10 minutes. Stir in wine, milk, tomato paste, thyme, 1/4 tsp salt, and 3/4 tsp pepper. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until most of liquid has evaporated but sauce is still moist, about 1 hour.
3. MAKE RICOTTA FILLING:
4. Put spinach in a kitchen towel (not terry cloth) and twist to squeeze out as much moisture as possible.
5. Whisk together ricotta, eggs, parmesan, nutmeg, 1 1/4 tsp salt, and 1 tsp pepper. Transfer 1 1/2 cups ricotta mixture to another bowl and whisk in 1/4 cup milk; set aside. Whisk spinach into remaining filling with remaining 1/2 cup milk.
6. ASSEMBLE AND BAKE LASAGNE:
7. Preheat oven to 375°F with rack in middle.
8. Soak noodles in a bowl of very warm water until pliable but not softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Place on a kitchen towel (it's not necessary to pat noodles dry).
9. Spread 1 1/2 cups bolognese sauce in baking pan and sprinkle with 1 Tbsp parmesan. Cover with 3 noodles, leaving space in between. Spread half of spinach filling on top, then 1 cup bolognese sauce, and top with 1 Tbsp parmesan and 3 noodles; repeat. Top with remaining bolognese sauce, 1 Tbsp parmesan, and remaining 3 noodles. Pour reserved ricotta mixture over top and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup parmesan.
10. Cover pan tightly with parchment paper and foil (or just buttered foil) and bake 50 minutes. Remove foil and bake until top is browned in spots, about 15 minutes more. Let stand 15 to 30 minutes before cutting.

Notes

Bolognese sauce can be made 2 days ahead and chilled (covered once cool).Lasagne can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Reheat in a 350°F oven, loosely covered with foil.

Lemon Layer Cake

If any cake could be called refreshing, this would be the one. Rich but light, it loses absolutely nothing from the absence of white flour.

Yield:

Serves 8

Ingredients

1. For the Cake Layers:
2. ====================
3. 1 cup canola oil, plus additional for greasing cake pans
4. 2 1/2 cups brown-rice flour mix
5. 1/2 teaspoon salt
6. 1 tablespoon baking powder
7. 1 teaspoon xanthan gum
8. 1 cup milk
9. 1 teaspoon vanilla
10. 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
11. 2 cups granulated sugar
12. 4 large eggs
13. .
14. For the Lemon Curd:
15. ====================
16. 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest
17. 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
18. 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
19. 3 large egg yolks
20. 1/4 teaspoon guar gum
21. 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon pieces
22. 1/4 teaspoon lemon extract
23. .
24. For the Lemon Frosting:
25. ====================
26. 2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened
27. 3 1/2 cups confectioners sugar
28. 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
29. 1/2 teaspoon lemon extract
30. 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh lemon zest

Directions

1. MAKE CAKE LAYERS:
2. Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Brush cake pans with canola oil. Line bottom of each pan with a round of parchment or wax paper, then oil paper.
3. Whisk together flour mix, salt, baking powder, and xanthan gum until combined well. Stir together milk, canola oil (1 cup), vanilla, and zest in another bowl.
4. Beat together sugar and eggs in a large bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed just until combined, about 1 minute. Reduce speed to low and add flour and milk mixtures alternately in batches, beginning and ending with flour mixture and mixing until just combined.
5. Divide batter evenly between cake pans, smoothing tops, and bake until a wooden pick or skewer inserted in center of each cake layer comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes.
6. Cool cake layers in pans on racks 10 minutes. Run a thin knife around edge of 1 cake layer and invert rack over cake pan, then invert cake onto rack. Repeat with second layer. Peel off paper and cool layers completely.
7. MAKE CURD:
8. Whisk together zest, lemon juice, sugar, yolks, a pinch of salt, and guar gum in a 1-quart heavy saucepan. Add butter and cook over moderately low heat, whisking constantly, until curd is thick enough to hold marks of whisk and first bubbles appear on surface, about 5 minutes. Whisk in extract. Immediately pour curd into a bowl, then cover surface with wax paper and chill until cold, about 30 minutes.
9. MAKE FROSTING:
10. Beat butter with an electric mixer at high speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Reduce speed to low and add confectioners sugar, lemon juice, extract, and zest, then mix until creamy and smooth, about 2 minutes.
11. FROST CAKE:
12. Halve each cake layer horizontally using a long serrated knife. Spread bottom half of each cake layer with half of lemon curd, then top with remaining cake layers to form two sandwiched cakes. Put 1 sandwiched cake on a cake stand or platter and spread a heaping 1/2 cup frosting over top, then cover with remaining sandwiched cake. Frost top and sides of cake with remaining frosting.

Notes

Cake layers can be made (but not halved) 1 day ahead and cooled completely, then kept, wrapped well in plastic wrap, at room temperature.Lemon curd can be chilled up to 3 days.Cake can be completely assembled and frosted 4 hours ahead and kept at room temperature, or 1 day ahead and chilled, loosely covered. Bring to room temperature before serving.